KARIBU
WHY WE LOVE TANZANIA
Here’s to 2021! After everything we have all had to endure in 2020, wouldn’t it be good if we could start doing “normal” things once again? Hugging each other, going out to dinner with friends, watching live sport, going to the theater, working alongside our colleagues, fired up with enthusiasm and hope?
Like many of us. I suspect I am (a) feeling mentally, physically, and emotionally drained by all, and (b) really, really, keen to get back onto African soil again, to feel her hot dusty earth under my feet and her rejuvenating sun on my back and to soak in all that wide-open space and enormous skies. I desperately want to connect with nature once more and replenish my soul.
The relationship between tourism and communities is replicated thousands of times across Africa, in numerous small environments, and across vast parks. Tourism is the lifeblood of rural Africa and the determined, committed people who work at every level in projects that rely on visitors have my utmost respect and admiration. I can only imagine how challenging the past year has been for all of them.
It is Tanzania’s incredible diversity of game-viewing areas with unparalleled numbers of game, herds of elephant, giant migrations of zebra, and wildebeest that appeals to us. From the snow-capped summit of Mount Kilimanjaro to the vast herds of game grazing on the endless plains of the Serengeti and the game-rich Ngorongoro Crater, as well as the sun-kissed beaches of Zanzibar to the people. Tanzania is home to some charming hosts. There are a few different tribes who make their lives in the bush, but the most well-known is the colorfully dressed Maasai. of elephant, giant migrations of zebra and wildebeest that appeals to us.
“I believe there is no sickness of the heart so great a dose cannot cure it of Africa. Families must go there to learn why they belong together on this earth, adolescents to discover humility, lovers to plumb old but untried wells of passion, honeymooners to seal marriages with a shared sense of bafflement, those shopworn with life to find a tonic for futility, the aged to recognize asymmetry to twilight. I know this all sounds a bit much, but if I have ever seen magic, it has been in Africa.”
John Hemingway’s African Journeys
Coronavirus situation “Mixed Messages”
Even with a vaccine in sight, the threat of the coronavirus and its economic effect is far from over. Where does that leave Tanzania?
Grim global outlook: Corona figures hit 60 million cases and around 1.4 million deaths in November. With winter and indoor living driving infections, Europe and America – the main tourism markets for East Africa - saw a grave rise in infections. The US passed 250,000 deaths, five times more than the whole continent of Africa observed since the start of the pandemic. Europe enforced new lockdowns. Germany, for example, recorded daily 200 deaths and more in November.
What does that mean for the African tourism industry? Africa will lose between $53 billion and $120 billion in contributions to its GDP in 2020 because of the crash in tourism, the World Travel and Tourism Council estimates. Kenya expects at least a 60% drop in tourism revenue this year, South Africa a 75% drop, official statements say.
Zanzibar is doing better. A unique campaign “1001 nights” offering free holidays to front-line medics (THE FUMBA TIMES reported) got off the ground; 50 hotels are in with 1001 bed nights. Meanwhile, the bureau of statistics predicts the island may reach half of last year’s 500,000 visitors by the end of the year. The reason: In October arrivals went remarkably up with 12,000 tourists coming mainly from France and Russia. 15,000 more were expected for November, up to 20,000 for December. So far, in ten months the visitors’ total has reached about 180,000.
Healthwise, Africa has so far withstood the pandemic better than initially feared. Less than 5% of global infections occur on the continent with 17% of the world’s population. A young demographic is seen as one of the reasons. Tanzania and Zanzibar took swift action, closing borders in mid-March. Two months later, Tanzania stopped testing and recording.
Medical progress: Worldwide, a vaccine is a big hope. Politicians and scientists have pledged to distribute vaccines globally. “People want to travel”, assures Anja Braun, a spokesperson of travel giant TUI, “when a successful vaccination is available, things will get back to normal.”
Last updated December 2020
Discovering Tanzania during Covid......
While most of the world remains shut for tourism, Tanzania has adopted another approach. With open borders and open arms, Tanzania is actively encouraging tourism, which is a breath of fresh air in this world filled with so much doom and gloom.
I flew off to Tanzania at the start of September for a 3-month fact-finding mission. I investigated how the safari camps and lodges have been affected by the coronavirus and what protocols are being implemented to ensure guests' safety, and how the game viewing experience may have changed.
I visited several areas across the Northern part of Tanzania and stayed at many different lodges.
International flights and airports
Understandably, many people worry about international airports and flights' safety, yet while I traveled, I could not have felt safer. Flying from Houston, I had a connection in Amsterdam, which flew directly into Kilimanjaro. All airports had automated hand sanitizer stations, enforced mask-wearing at all times, and adhered to social distancing measures.
All the staff wore masks and gloves where appropriate, and due to the lack of travelers, I had never seen the airports so empty. Houston was like a ghost town, and although Amsterdam was slightly busier, it certainly did not have the same number of people as would usually be expected. We had to wear our masks during the flights at all times, and the flight attendants strictly enforced this. Before leaving, I had to get a negative Covid test within 72 hours of departure.
Arrival
Upon arrival at Kilimanjaro airport, Airport authorities checked the temperature, and we had to sanitize our hands. Other than these two precautions, Tanzania has no entry requirements, making it the perfect destination right now. With its incredible wildlife and open arms policy, traveling here could not be more comfortable or stress-free.
As with most Tanzanian itineraries, a night or two in Arusha is necessary as a quick stopover, and my trip was no different.
My transfer to the Gran Melia was in a freshly sanitized vehicle, and my driver wore gloves and a mask throughout the journey. Upon arrival to the hotel, all staff wore masks and ensured that social distancing measures were followed. The process was smooth and safe.
Tarangire National Park
Tarangire is the quietest park in the North of Tanzania, most people head straight for the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti and miss this beautiful park. With the meandering Tarangire River running throughout, the park is famous for its exceptionally large elephant population, increasing as the dry season progresses. With water sources drying up and vegetation becoming limited, vast herds of buffalo and elephants congregate in the South of the park. They are accompanied by other wildlife like lions, cheetah, and so much more.
One of the bonuses of Tarangire is the option of a night drive. Here you can explore the park under cover of darkness and witness some of the lesser-seen creatures like serval, aardwolf, and genet. During my visit here, I stayed at Nomad’s Kuro. With Tarangire situated about half an hour by plane from Kilimanjaro Airport and the camp only a few kilometers from the airstrip, your journey could not be more comfortable. On the internal flights, all passengers and staff wore face masks, and social distancing was enforced.
Nomad’s Kuro is a beautiful camp, and they have strict Covid protocols in place. Hand washing stations are scattered throughout the lodge, and upon arrival, you must undergo a hand washing and sanitizing ritual. The staff all wear masks and keep their distance from you. Yet, their friendliness and hospitality has not changed and remains of the highest quality. In a normal year, Tarangire sees only a fraction of vehicles than the Serengeti or the Crater, yet de only saw one other. During my stay, there was a real feeling of tranquillity and exclusivity that made the game even more special. Sightings were not rushed, and we spent up to and over an hour in the special sightings.
The Serengeti
I spent an extended period in the Serengeti and visited two main areas: the Grumeti Private Reserve and Kogatende.
The Grumeti Private Reserve is run solely by Singita, who has several different lodges located here. As with all Singita properties, the service was first class, and the lodges were opulent and lavish. From the stunning views from Sasakwa Lodge and Faru Faru to the newly refurbished Sabora, no matter where you choose, Singita promises an experience like no other.
Upon arrival at Singita’s airstrip, you and your luggage are walked through a sanitizing machine where a sanitizing mist is sprayed over you. As well as this, your temperature is taken after every game drive, and handwashing rituals are enforced. All staff wears masks, and you are assigned your waiter so that you only come into contact with as few people as possible.
The game viewing experience is exceptional as well. With it being a private concession, Singita has sole use of the 350,000-acre area. Off-roading is permitted, allowing you to follow the wildlife through its natural habitat whilst giving you some of the best photographic opportunities you could wish for. Their strong conservation ethos has also created a haven for the critically endangered black rhino, a success story.
In the Kogatende region I stayed at Nomad’s Lamai, Asilia’s Sayari and Lemala’s Kuria Hills. Whilst all three camps were beautiful, they all shared a common goal of ensuring the guest’s safety. At all camps, communal dining and buffet-style dinners have been abandoned, so you are secure in your ‘bubble.’
In the past you may have had up to six guests on a vehicle but now only a maximum of four people are allowed (unless they are part of the same group). If there are four people on the vehicle, social distancing is enforced and there will be two seated on the front row and two on the back row. However, due to the lack of visitors, I had a private vehicle to myself for most of the time, which often comes at an extra cost!
Whilst game drives in the Serengeti are never a dull moment, with a private vehicle and so few other cars in the area, the experience at the moment is unprecedented. During my time, what surprised me most was the lack of cars at river crossings.
The wildebeest crossing the Mara River is one of the most spectacular wildlife spectacles on the planet. Each year millions of the creatures do so between July and October in search of pastures greener. During my time in the North of the Serengeti, I was lucky enough to see five crossings, ranging from two hundred wildebeest up to five thousand. From past experiences and speaking to my guide Edwin, you can expect anywhere between thirty to fifty vehicles at a river crossing during a typical year and even more (over one hundred sometimes) in the Masai Mara. We, however, had a maximum of three others with us. Apart from the sighting being incredible, witnessing such an event with very few other people made the experience more memorable and far more intimate.
Here are some of my Highlights...
Staying at the Four Season Serengeti
Deep in the heart of the world’s most famous wildlife reserves, where the Big Five – the lion, the leopard, the buffalo, the elephant, and the rhinoceros – run free on the endless, untamed landscape. Perched on a series of elevated platforms and walkways, this Lodge sits next to an animal watering hole, where you can watch a family of elephants stops for their morning drink as you sip your own out on your room’s private balcony. Under the constant protection of local Maasai tribespeople, we’ll take you in the bush for an exhilarating game drive, or you can soar high in the sky on a hot-air balloon safari. However you spend your day, the Spa is waiting to help you rehydrate, restore and re-energize for your next adventure. Our only question – where would you like to begin?
INFINITY POOL
Spend a quiet day lounging on a sunbed by our free-form, infinity-edge pool, watching elephants
gather for a drink at the nearby active watering hole beneath an endless turquoise sky.
With Valentine's Day is just around the corner....and although we aren't huge fans of Hallmark Holidays, it's a good time to reflect on all things romantic – including beautifully intimate getaways. For anyone seeking an escape for two, this lodge delivers a top-notch background upon which to write your own love story.
The Highlands, Ngorongoro
Olmoti Crater is a few kilometers away from the iconic (and extremely busy) Ngorongoro Crater, creating a wild off the beaten track setting for the unique architecture of Highlands Lodge. Each room is created with steel domes stretched in canvas. The round shape evokes the feeling of being in a cozy nest – a perfect haven for two.
The weather is usually cooler at The Highlands, so every evening, clients are welcome back to their secluded dome with a roaring fire next to huge beds overlooking the mists' sweeping views rolling past the surrounding mountains. It's a kind of cozy mountain hideaway. In the evenings, a fully stocked whisky bar awaits with equally incredible views.
For adventurous pursuits, try the walk to a 'secret' waterfall on the Olmoti Crater floor or have a humble tea with a Masai family.
Regrettably, I did have to leave, but on reflection, traveling to Tanzania was one of the most stress- free experiences I have ever had and the safari experience was second to none. Escaping the negativity of the US was a relief, and I could not have felt safer whilst traveling or when staying at the camps. The safari experience has not changed apart from a few extra safety protocols in place and the game viewing has become even better for those that are willing to travel.
If you can travel to Tanzania, you will not regret it!
Of course, there were so many other places I visit, but we save that for next time.
Lastly, with this pandemic, so many local businesses have been affected by the lack of tourism. We've been so inspired by the many projects and initiatives that support communities and conservations across East Africa that we started a directory of them. It is by no means completed, and we'll keep adding to it, but if you are looking for something to buy or a cause to donate to, head to Urth Expedition and follow the link to our Social enterprise listings.
We donate 5% of each gross sales to the chosen enterprise and or cause.
If you know of any enterprise that we should include, please email me at info@urthsafari.com
“IN UNION THERE IS STRENGTH.
“Every great dream begins with a dreamer. Always remember you have within you the strength, the patience, and the passion to reach for the stars to change the world.”